![udini](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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udini
Германия
Добавлен 11 фев 2008
the Art, Science, Training & Technique of Climbing and Bouldering, presented by Udo "udini" Neumann.
Since his 1993's cult book "Performance Rock Climbing", Udo has been on the forefront of modern climbing and bouldering with his books "Lizenz zum Klettern", "Climbing at the limit of human performance" (with Klem Loskot) and "Lizenz zum Bouldern" as well as many DVDs about better climbing and bouldering. From 2009 till 2017, Udo coached the successful German Bouldering Team and published the "Boulder World Cup reports" as well as videos about the German Bouldering Team trainings here on this channel. Nowadays Udo consults several climbing federations and coaches teams and individuals around the globe.
Impressum:
NAME DES KANAL BETREIBERS, inhaltlich verantwortlich nach § 55 Abs. 2 RStV
udini mediaworks
Udo Neumann
Thurnerstr.64a
51069 Köln
Deutschland
E-Mail: udinimedia@gmail.com
Telefon: +49 221 68 448 -2
Aufsichtsbehörde nach § 5 TMG Abs. 1 Nr. 8: Landesanstalt für Medien NRW
Since his 1993's cult book "Performance Rock Climbing", Udo has been on the forefront of modern climbing and bouldering with his books "Lizenz zum Klettern", "Climbing at the limit of human performance" (with Klem Loskot) and "Lizenz zum Bouldern" as well as many DVDs about better climbing and bouldering. From 2009 till 2017, Udo coached the successful German Bouldering Team and published the "Boulder World Cup reports" as well as videos about the German Bouldering Team trainings here on this channel. Nowadays Udo consults several climbing federations and coaches teams and individuals around the globe.
Impressum:
NAME DES KANAL BETREIBERS, inhaltlich verantwortlich nach § 55 Abs. 2 RStV
udini mediaworks
Udo Neumann
Thurnerstr.64a
51069 Köln
Deutschland
E-Mail: udinimedia@gmail.com
Telefon: +49 221 68 448 -2
Aufsichtsbehörde nach § 5 TMG Abs. 1 Nr. 8: Landesanstalt für Medien NRW
JANJA BEGINS, 2016-2017
Janja Garnbret’s first Boulder World Cup, her first podium, Lead World Championship and Boulder World Cup victory, including her stunning top of W2 in Munich 2017 - All in one video, spanning her formative years 2016-2017!
Просмотров: 2 009
Видео
Janja Garnbret V Ai Mori - pacing comparison
Просмотров 5 тыс.28 дней назад
Pacing Matters! One of the simplest ways for a climbing coach (or self-coached climber) is to look into your athlete’s pacing. Better climbers are vastly more variable in this regard, as you can see in this comparison of the two best female lead climbers. On a lower level (athletes that struggle to make semis for example) you tend to find more uniform pacing. You might also find limited attenti...
Next Generation: Analise van Hoang & Geila Macià Martín
Просмотров 9363 месяца назад
Analise van Hoang & Geila Macià Martín in the Boulder finals of the Youth Worlds 2023, Analise winning and Geila second place in the U16 category. 2024 is the first year they can compete internationally in the open category and they are both already making an impact. Last weekend Analise won the first Continental cup in Salt Lake City while Geila got second place at its European equivalent in K...
Boulder World Cup finals - how to make them in 2024
Просмотров 2 тыс.3 месяца назад
Boulder World Cup finals - how to make them in 2024
Climbing Talent Development Show - Oona Frawley, Ireland Climbing
Просмотров 1 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Climbing Talent Development Show - Oona Frawley, Ireland Climbing
Jumping out of compromised positions is a crucial skill for modern bouldering. Janja Garnbret Flash
Просмотров 2,3 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Jumping out of compromised positions is a crucial skill for modern bouldering. Janja Garnbret Flash
Interesting and physical moves and positions to the zone of W2 in the finals of the Brixen BWC 2023
Просмотров 46610 месяцев назад
Interesting and physical moves and positions to the zone of W2 in the finals of the Brixen BWC 2023
“Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to…”
Просмотров 93911 месяцев назад
“Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to…”
deciphering number 4 (Prague Boulder Worldcup semis W4)
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.Год назад
deciphering number 4 (Prague Boulder Worldcup semis W4)
welcome break from all those climbing comps - outdoor #bouldering at Ötztal!
Просмотров 480Год назад
welcome break from all those climbing comps - outdoor #bouldering at Ötztal!
For my initial assessment, I trust my coaches eye. #short
Просмотров 888Год назад
For my initial assessment, I trust my coaches eye. #short
sampling Getaria (Basque Country) bouldering
Просмотров 663Год назад
sampling Getaria (Basque Country) bouldering
Mike Call interview in Salt Lake's legendary boulder gym Body Shop, 1992
Просмотров 378Год назад
Mike Call interview in Salt Lake's legendary boulder gym Body Shop, 1992
Coaching Climbing through Route-setting ft. Katsu Miyazawa
Просмотров 2,7 тыс.Год назад
Coaching Climbing through Route-setting ft. Katsu Miyazawa
Climbing Performance Coaching - 2022 workshops
Просмотров 2 тыс.Год назад
Climbing Performance Coaching - 2022 workshops
Tomoa Narasaki re-invents climbing, 2016
Просмотров 22 тыс.Год назад
Tomoa Narasaki re-invents climbing, 2016
the Constraints-lead approach in climbing
Просмотров 508Год назад
the Constraints-lead approach in climbing
Constraints-lead approach (CLA) in climbing
Просмотров 385Год назад
Constraints-lead approach (CLA) in climbing
Does someone know whick kind of level is that ? 8C ?
Nice editing, especially dramatic at 12:45...
I don't know how she held that😮
hell yeah this is sick
The GOAT! The Legend! and with Charlie's commentary! .... what more can you ask for! Thanks for the video!
JANJA ! 💪
Routsetter: Barna Kerényi
that is insane
Spiaggia delle lucertole! 🔝
Whats first female climbers name?
Jule Wurm, Boulder World Champion 2014
@@therealudini thx
This is great comp
Mountain goat cosplay
Stoked
Great video and I look forward to visiting in September! 😊 Really liked the music which started at 19:14 - Between Worlds by Dave O’Brien! 🤘🏻
Ai more had more time on the clock, how come Janja won this?
The same way as Ai won in Edinburgh. On count back. Janja was faster than, but Ai won.
@@_kate_swhat do u mean?
@@keinbeaton8248 in case of a tie, the climber who placed higher in the semifinals wins. So instead of rewarding a faster pace it rewards a more consistent result over the whole competition.
They both topped here, so count back to semi, but then they both fell on the same hold 48+, so they went back to the qualifier's result with which Janja had a better result.
ai actually climbed the top section 90 seconds faster. incredible
And 90 seconds slower lower section :D
@@_kate_s the lower section is the easier section which awards lower points. lead routes get progressively harder the farther you progress, and the points awarded commensurate that difficulty. ai was slower at the beginning because she had to climb down and rethink how she'd approach the particular dynamic section of the wall (which, worth-mentioning, is the point at which 3 other climbers fell), and would require a much stronger jump for someone of her stature and reach. so yes, it is very impressive that she climbed through the top section at the speed she did.
She has incredible endurance and lots left in the tank. She climbed the route beautifully. Like poetry on the wall. So zen to watch. She’s the only climber I watch and follow. It’s like watching art on the wall. So fluid. Just gorgeous. It’s no wonder her fans are increasing. 😊
@@lill8537+1 thats also my idol as well. All that Ai does on the wall seems sometimes not so obvious but very technical indeed and smart at same time. She's like a poetry, I agree.
maybe dont leave both comment tracks running at the same time next time
actually i find it pretty enjoyable
@@nandovancreij yeah it was like those documentary montages when they have different news commentary interspersed to provide context and backstory :D
Ai vs Janja on lead is the most compelling competition climbing i have seen in 10+ years watching.They are just always requiring each other to be at their best in order to finish above the other. Love what they bring out of each other and its impact on the sport's level of competition.
she and the best of the best a lot of pro climbers will sy this ...yes
aaaw, she so composed :D amazin.
That's the one only Gines topped?
Is that Alabama?
Fontainebleau
She made that look wayyy too easy 🔥
Yannick’s right arm seems bent slightly , which shows the arm was engaging. And he quickly lifted his left foot, which first landed on the wall, but then he quickly turned his hip to the left to place his left foot on the hold. 😅
Excellent!
Naš diamant! ❤
I would prefer watching this in original speed
why the heck are you guys replaying at 5:00? 😂
passion separates the people. Very well
That highstep one leg squat 🔥🔥🔥
Compare the hips placements and you get the diference
Is the full broadcast of the oqs with Matt groom plus+ commentating on RUclips?
Magnífico!
The music fits so perfectly !!!!
Someone make a streetfighter-style comparison between Klem and Janja for their ascents. :P
We all revising the old footie ahh? hahaha. Crazy how much climbing has evolved.
🤍🤍🤍
If Spider-woman existed in real life
Weightless!
💪🏼
Eh does not look that hard
😂
😅 gee what a generous comment
Spider JAN
Fine video Master Coach!
What did you eat over there? 😅
Only the local food without any problems. This is one reason why we were so good
@@therealudini so the chili was no issues for the comp? Some people end up only eating at McD over there in CQ 😆
@@genjuroSE that's sad
@@therealudini haha yes, but masses of chili is not for everyone!!
Great analysis as usual!
You might be tempted to say that she's just stronger than other women. But here you can see that her technique is flawless. All her movements are more efficient than the ones of her competitors.
Setting aside her movement, she appears more athletic/muscular than the others somehow.